CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er CRU LES CHARMES POUSSE D'OR 2016

Les Charmes premier cru

Appellation : 1er Cru.

Superficie : 18.8 ares soit 4,39 ouvrées.

Situation : entre 260 et 280 mètres d'altitude, face au levant, le coteau est proche de la roche-mère au sol peu épais. De nombreuses fissures dans le calcaire dur permettent aux racines de chercher leur bonheur loin dans le sous-sol jurassique. Des blocs et graviers assurent un bon drainage.

Orientation : Sud-est. Au levant.

Cépages : 100 % Pinot noir

Année de Plantation : 100% en 1982

Vignoble : Les vignes sont cultivées sans pesticide ni insecticide, et l'unique apport, la fumure, est d'origine naturelle. La terre est travaillée, sans désherbant, pour maintenir l'aération ainsi que la souplesse du sol.

Vinification : Vendange manuelle en caissettes, triée en cuverie, éraflée à 100%. Macération à froid pendant 7 jours, régulation de la température de fermentation, deux pigeages par jour, cuvaison pendant 21 jours.

Élevage : Sur lie en fûts de chêne (30% neuf) pendant 15 mois, fermentation malolactique naturelle et tardive, sans collage ni filtration, soutirage et mise en bouteille par gravité.

Dégustation : Au regard, un rubis vif, auréolé de reflets brillants et lumineux. La violette, les petits fruits rouges (fraise, framboise) composent son bouquet d'une belle typicité. Plus âgé, il évolue vers le fruit mûr épicé, le pruneau, ou vers la truffe, le sous-bois et l'animal. Riche bouqueté et complexe, il tapisse le palais de soie et de dentelle. Sa délicatesse charnue ne l'empêche pas de conserver une structure solide et durable. Assez moelleux, peu portés sur l'acidité, ses tanins restent caressants.

PARKER : 90-92

The 2016 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes has one of the better aromatics out of the three Chambolle premier crus that I tasted from the domaine—this one is much more refined and elegant, showing more joie de vivre. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chalky tannin, well-judged acidity and a tang of orange rind and spice that enliven the finish. This is worth seeking out.

When I was in Burgundy last year tasting the 2015s, there were rumors that Domaine de la Pousse d’Or was on the market. I don’t know whether that is true or not, though with a splendid array of holdings in both the Côtes de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, it would not surprise me if investors were courting the Landanger family. Returning 12 months later, I was met by Benoît Landanger and informed that he would be taking over from his father Patrick from 1 January 2018. Therefore, it looks as if the domaine will not be changing hands but passing to the next generation, indeed, Benoît told me that he worked alongside his father for the last five vintages. He told me that they have recently acquired an optical sorting machine, passim in Bordeaux but rarely used in Burgundy, and have also introduced three wines raised in amphora with minimal SO2 usage in order to express the purity of the vineyard. I did taste these, although as I told Benoît, if you asked me to take a bottle to enjoy over dinner, I prefer the classic bottling with sulfur and oak. Having been impacted by the frost in some vineyards, this inevitably was not as consistent a range of 2016s. There is still a preponderance of black fruit when I would like to see them capture more brighter red fruit, perhaps by easing off the skin maceration? As I have mentioned, the domaine boasts an enviable portfolio, but I often feel that the wines are badgering for attention when there is no need. Anyway, I look forward to seeing the direction that Benoît will take the winery next year.